What About Yarn

Lacy Drawstring Crochet Top |The Lacy Lemon

With the simplest of stitches, this pattern will be your go to reference for your summer crochet projects. It’s an addicting top to make and it works up really quick as well.

Pattern Use: Feel free to sell your finished items made by this design but please do not use my photos nor share screenshots of this written pattern. I kindly ask you to link back to this website if you wish to share this pattern.

Watch the full video version of this pattern on my Youtube Channel.

Lacy Lemon Drawstring Top

The full detailed written pattern complete with step by step instructions and high resolution photos will be available soon on my Ravelry. Feel free to follow me on Instagram to get updated.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Gauge: 10 sts x 10.75 rows = 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm) in Cross Double Crochets stitches

Finished Size: fits 28″ – 32″ chest circumference

Materials:

• 103 g or 371 m of Dapper Dreamer Tropical (I used the shade Chocolate Hills). You can get this yarn here.

• Size E (3.5 mm) crochet hook, a pair of scissors, a yarn needle and a couple of stitch markers

Stitches Used:

cdc = cross double crochet, picot stitch https://youtu.be/9ntkDfEe8pM

Flare 1

Rnd 1: Ch 160, ss in the very first ch, ch 3, dc in each ch around, ss in the 3rd ch of the starting chs.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, cdc in each st around, ss in the 3rd ch of the beg chs.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, * 3 dc cluster in the center of each cdc stitch, ch 1 *, rep from * to *, dc in the last st, ss in the 3rd ch of the beg chs.

Rnd 4: Ch 2, *{sc, picot, sc}* into the cluster, rep from * to *, ch 2, sc, ss into the 2nd ch of beg chs.

Body

*Ch 3, cdc in each st around, ss into the 3rd ch of the beg chs *, rep from * to * until you have 13 rows of cdc.

Attach stitch marker in every 40th st.

Decreasing Rows

Row 1: From the side, ss in the next st, ch 2, dc in the next st (this will create a dc2tog). Cdc in each st up to the last 2 stitches at stitch marker, dc2tog in the last 2 stitches, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc2tog, cdc in each stitch up to the last 3 stitches, dc2tog in the next 2 stitches, dc in the last stitch, turn.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1 and 2 until you have 10 decreasing rows. Do not cut yarn.

Flare 2

Continue with ch 1, *{sc, picot, sc}*, rep from * to * across, ss in the last st.

With the front of the project facing you, repeat instructions from Deacreasing Rows to Flare 2 to make the other side.

With the back of the project facing you, use the center stitch marker as your basis to find your location for the straps. Count 5 cdc stitches on both sides from the center stitch marker and attach stitch markers.

Start working at the stitch markers’ stitch in the side of your work and repeat instructions from Flare 2 until you reach the first stitch marker.

Chain as many chains as you want (I did about a meter or so) but enough to pass through the other opposite shoulder to be able to tie a knot at the front. Attach tassel and sc in each of the chains across (click here to see how I make my tassels), ss into the stitch markers’ stitch, repeat instructions from Flare 2 and create the second strap.

Repeat the same pattern for the rest of the stitches and ss into the last st at the stitch markers’ stitch on the opposite side.

With the front of the project facing you, thread the straps in a crisscross manner towards the 1st cdc row of the front part.

Weave in the remaining ends of yarn.

Show off your finished drawstring top on social media! Tag me @whataboutyarn so I can feauture your projects as well! Come and follow me on Instagram for more update on upcoming crochet tops patterns.

Easy Like Sunday Bikini Top

I’m very pleased to put up another free pattern for you guys. Not only that, I’m also excited to have another additional garment in my cute tops collection. We can never have too many handmade items, right? 😉

I happily introduce the Easy Like Sunday Bikini Top. If you happen to make the Easy Like Sunday Bikini Bottom, here is it’s matching upper part. I hope you will like it!

The matching bikini bottom pattern of this top can be found here.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Gauge: 13 sts x 6 rows = 2″ x 2″ (5cm x 5cm) in double crochets

Materials: #1 Superfine/Fingering Weight Yarn; size C (3.0 mm) and size E (3.5 mm) crochet hook; Scissors and Tapestry Needle

Finished Size: XS = can fit 34a, 32b, 30c cups

Stitches & Abbreviations: rnd = round; ch (s) = chain (s); dc = double crochet; st (s) = stitch (es); ch sp = chain space; sl st = slip stitch; sk = skip, sc = single crochet; dc2tog = double crochet two stitches together; dc3tog = double crochet three stitches together

Important Notes to Remember:

The pattern that is enclosed in brackets ( ) are worked in the same stitch.
All turning ch 3s count as a stitch.

Important Measurements:

Your under bust measurement minus 7 inches. For example, my under bust is 28″ – 7″ = 21 “.

The Cup

Rnd 1: Ch 16, dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in the last ch, dc in each st across, ch 3, turn. (32 dc and 1 ch 1 sp)

Rnd 2: Dc in each st across up to the center ch 1 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the center ch 1 sp, dc in each st across, ch 3, turn. (36 dc and 1 ch 1 sp)

Repeat Rnd 2 (10 times), fasten and cut yarn, leaving about 8 to 10 inches tail for seaming.

Now repeat everything from the very beginning to create the second cup.

The Band

Row 1: Using a size E (3.5 mm) hook, chain as many times until you get to your under bust measurement (refer to instructions under “Important Measurements”). For my size, I chained a total of 106. Now switch back to size C (3.0 mm) hook, dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across, ch 3, turn. (104 dc)

Row 2: Dc in each st across, ch 3, turn. (104 dc)

Repeat Row until you have a total of 7 rows for the band. Do not cut yarn.

Edging

Continue with ch 3, sl st into the 3rd ch from the hook to create a picot stitch, *sk the next st, sc in the next st, ch 3, sl st into the 3rd ch from the hook to create a picot stitch*, repeat from * to * across until you get to the end of the row. Fasten and cut yarn.

Seaming

The idea of this part of the pattern is to place one cup on top of the other cup while stretching your band a few inches before seaming everything in place. Watch the accompanying video guide to accurately follow this part.

Straps

Row 1: Sl st into the top center ch 1 sp of the cup, ch 3, dc2tog into the center ch 1 sp, ch1, dc3tog into the center ch 1 sp, turn.

Row 2: *Ch 3, dc2tog into the center ch 1 sp, ch1, dc3tog into the center ch 1 sp*, turn.

Repeat until you have 10 clusters, sl st into the center ch 1 sp to close and continue chaining as many times until you are content with the length of your ties.

Repeat procedure to make the second strap.

Weave in all the remaining ends and you’re done!

How do you like this pattern? Please leave a review on my Facebook Page and share this website and my Youtube Channel to your social medias! It would mean so much to me!

Don’t forget to tag me @whataboutyarn so I can feature your lovely works on my sites too!

Would you like to test my patterns? You can do so at our facebook group! Follow me on Instagram as well and get updated with all my current projects!

May Flower Bag

A few weeks ago my garden was filled with so much colors. It’s the summer of May in the island again, which means that my bougainvilleas are in their fullest bloom.

I was inspired by its gradient orange-pink shades reflecting in the sun, as if they were dancing gracefully with the wind in the endless sapphire sky. As I sat in the picnic table with my paper and pen and a hot cuppa, the idea of a bucket bag came to my mind, and I know just how it’s going to look like.

The May Flowers bag has just passed the testing phase and I am very happy to be able to put up another pattern release for this year. It’s been a very busy week for my testers and I’m very grateful to be able to work with amazing and reliable people in this community. Without them, this project would not be possible.

Check out this collage of their beautiful work-in-progress!

From left to right are the creations of Dina Sengupta, Malou Gaerlan, Pamela Zee, Peachy Gonzalez, Sabrina Merchant, Dimple Massey, Carrie Heise Morissette, Tammy Egan and April O’Brien.

The May Flower bag, although it kinda looks complicated uses a minimal pattern repeats and it is very addicting once you get the hang of it. It has a very easy to follow instructions and athough it is not quite beginner-friendly, this is a nice project to up your skills!

You can find the complete written pattern with pictures on my Ravelry and Etsy shops. Also, there is a Youtube tutorial on how I did the cord and tassels for this bag. Check it out here.

Keep in touch with me via my Instagram account so that you wont miss any posts and updates on new pattern releases!

Hope Bralette (Free Crochet Pattern)

There is hope for Hope.

I named this design after a sweet little puppy named Hope. She was found as a stray by a Luxembourgish couple whom I met later in February during their vacation here in Siquijor island.

She was found alone and scared. They instantly established a connection and bond with her and fell inlove. They named her Hope and decided to adopt her and foster her a home. Such kind-hearted people, I really appreciate them for that. How I wish all stray dogs in the island can be fostered as well but unfortunately, due to poverty, not everybody has the capability (and probably the will) to do so. (If you’d like to help feed the stray dogs of Siquijor island, please feel free to send me an email at kcbaena@gmail.com. All your proceeds will be donated to a dog rescue organization in the island).

As I sit here this morning, typing away with my coffee, with some tears in my eyes, my mind uplifts with the realization that every living creature has a role to play in this world. No matter how big or small, they are all here for a reason and their little lives matters just as much as ours.

Pictured below is a photo of Hope. She was really skinny when I first saw her, now she looks so healthy and strong! Check out this post to see more pictures of Hope.

Disclaimer: ** This written pattern as well as it’s accompanying video guide is not sponsored. **

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Gauge: 24 sts x 10 rows = 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm) in Double Crochets

Materials: • #3 Light/DK weight yarn (I am using Dapper Dreamer Summer in the color Ocean) you will need approximately 52 grams or 117 meters for size XS. (Click here to purchase this yarn).
• Size C (3.0 mm) crochet hook
• Scissors & yarn needle

Finished Size: XS = fits (34a, 32b, 30c cups)

Important Notes: The pattern that is enclosed in brackets { } are worked in the same ch/stitch; All turning ch 3 counts as a stitch; The symbols * * designates a repeat.

HOPE BRALETTE

To work this bralette, you need to start with the cup, followed by the border and lace details. We then connect both cups using a net pattern for the back part and finally attach the front straps.

Rnd 1: Ch 20, dc on the 4th ch from the hook, dc in each ch across, add {2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc} in the last ch, dc in each ch across, ch 3, turn. (40 dc and one ch 1 sp)

Rnd 2: Dc in each st across up to the center ch 1 sp, {2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc} into the center ch 1 sp, (watch this video to follow this step) dc in each st across, ch 3, turn. (44 dc and one ch 1 sp)

Repeat Round 2 five more times or until the cup fits perfectly in your breast, adding 4 sts in each round. You will have a total of 7 rounds for the cup. If you prefer less or more coverage, add or subtract rows before working on your border.

Border and Lace

Row 1: 3, 1 dc in the 1st row from the bottom of the cup, (Watch this video to follow this step). 2 dc in each of the rows across, ch 5, turn. (32 dc)

Row 2: Sk the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, * ch 5, sk the next 3 sts, sc in the next st, * Repeat from * to * across until the end of row, ch 3, turn. (8 ch 5 sps/arches)

Row 3: Sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 sp, (watch this video to follow this step) * ch 5, sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 sp, * Repeat from * to * across until the end of row, ch 3, turn. (7 ch 5 sps/arches)

Repeat Row 3 three more times, decreasing 1 ch 5 sps/arch in each row, until you have a total of 4 ch 5 sps/arches left.

Row 7: Sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 sp, * 3 dc into the sc from previous row, sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 sp, * Repeat from * to * across until the end of row, ch 3, sl st into the next sc from the previous row. Fasten and cut yarn.

Repeat everything from the beginning to make the second cup.

Halter Straps

Chain 200 or more depending on the length that you prefer. Take note that we will take the middle part of the chains to be able to make a thicker strap. From the back, attach the middle part of the strap to the center ch 1 sp. (Watch this video to follow this step).

Back Part (The Net)

The back part is where we work the net pattern. From here, you’ll need to take your bust measurement divided by 2. For example, my total bust measurement is 32 inches, divided by 2 which brings it to 16 inches. That means that I have to work the back pattern until I have it up to 16 inch long. (Watch here how I explain this procedure in detail).

Row 1: Join yarn with a sl st into the ch space in the first st at the side of thr cup (watch this video to follow this step), ch 3, dc in the next st, * ch 2, sk the next 2 sts, dc in the next st, * Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in the next st, ch 3, turn. (6 dc and 3 ch 2 sps)

Row 2: Dc in the next st, * ch 2, sk the next ch 2 sps, dc in the next st, * Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in the last st, ch 3, turn. (6 dc and 3 ch 2 sps)

Repeat Row 2 until you have 24 rows in total or until your net is as long your bust measurement divided by 2.

Tip: Stretch your net as you go along because cotton tends to stretch over time after several washes.

Connect the net to the other side of the cup using sl sts. (Please watch this video in detail to see how I connect the net to the cup) or if you prefer, you can use any technique such as seaming. Fasten off and cut yarn.

With a tapestry needle, weave in all ends.

For the front strap closure, chain 200 or more depending on the length that you prefer and start threading the chains to each side of the cups and you’re done!

How do you like this pattern? Please leave me a review on my Facebook Page and share this website and my Youtube Channel to your social medias! It would mean so much to me! Don’t forget to tag me @whataboutyarn so I can feature your lovely works in my sites too!

Would you like to test my patterns? You can do so in our little facebook group! Follow me on Instagram as well and get updated with all my current projects! See you all there!

How To Adjust The Sizes Of A Crochet Pattern To Fit You And Your Client

We’ve all been there.

You found a beautiful crochet design. You got your materials and you tried to work the pattern. You do exactly what the pattern says. You spend lots of time and effort only to find out later that you surprisingly gained 5 pounds in no time because the finished garment was just too small. (Lol, I am exaggerating here).

And so you want to make it just a tad bigger and maybe a bit smaller or perhaps a little bit larger to make room for the extra 2 kilos (wink), but seriously, I think we all want our swimmies to be snug and with the right amount of fit.

So how exactly do you adjust the stitches on a crochet pattern to be able to fit your own size or your client’s?

In this video, I will show you how you can achieve this.

Here I am demonstrating for the Easy Like Sunday Bikini Bottom pattern but if you study it carefully and understand what I am trying to explain, you will be able to apply this simple method with any other pattern as well.

I have to say that this bikini bottom is really one of my favorites to make this year. I’ve never made so many colors of the same pattern, it’s quite addicting to be honest. I believe I already have five in total and since I am making this for myself, I was able to play with the fitting.

That’s the beauty of handmade garments, you can be very flexible if you know exactly how to make them suit your body or your customer’s. You want it to be snug, not too loose and not too tight.

Check out these gorgeous ladies in their finished bikini bottoms during our pattern testing. (If you’d like to test my future patterns, you can join us on our little facebook community).

Shoutout to these amazing artists for doing a great job in helping me test this pattern. Please do support them and check out their shops and creations in their Instagram accounts: Peaches Robbins of @peachesmay; Jesse Faith Molina of @jesealikethesea; Ashley Andino of @andinocreations and Victoria Cunningham of @craftyhandsusa.

I need to be honest here, it took me an extensive amount of time and research, several attempts and multiple trials and errors before I managed to work around my gauges. So today, I would like to share this little piece of knowledge to all of you, so that you too can apply it to your projects and I promise that it will save you a lot of time once you master this.

Actually, it’s pretty easy. It all comes down to common sense. To be able to explain to you in detail, I made a video on my Youtube Channel so that everyone will be able to follow what I’m saying regardless of which skill level you are.

You can find the written pattern for the Easy Like Sunday Bikini Bottom here.

Please watch this video and let me know if you have further questions. It would mean so much to me if I know that you understand it and of course, please do subscribe. In this way, you can help my little channel thrive. Keep On Creating!

Easy Like Sunday Bikini Bottom

Today I have a new pattern for you.

The Easy Like Sunday bikini bottom is exactly how the name says. It’s an advanced beginner pattern and it’s definitely a lovely project to create. I’m sure you will enjoy making this for summer!

The process of making this garment is simple. You’ll basically take your measurements and determine the width and length of your crotch. Watch this video to see how I measured my crotch length. To get my crotch length, I used a tape measure and placed it at my hip level (from the back) passing through my crotch underneath and stopped at the same hip level from the front. If you’re not sure what I mean, try to picture how a mother places a diaper on a baby. It looks something like that.

The concept of this garment was done on a typical Sunday morning. Just a normal lazy day at home with my coffee and scrolling through Instagram pictures. One of my neighbors decided to play Lionel Ritchie in the background on a loudspeaker. Great huh, he must be a big fan. Typically I would react a bit from the noise, but this time, I just let it go. For some reason that felt good … the fact that you just let people be happy about themselves while you mind your own business. It’s an easy sunday after all.

Easy Like Sunday Bikini Bottom

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Gauge: 14 dc x 5.5 rows = 2″ x 2″ (10cm x 10cm)

Finished Size: XXS = (I am Petite). Check out this Video Guide on How To Adjust The Stitches of This Pattern To Fit Your Own Size. Also, I am working on a PDF Pattern for several sizes of this project to make it easier for you. I want to make this as less hassle as possible for you. If you’d like to apply to test my future patterns, please join my newly built community on Facebook here as I will be posting more testing calls soon!

Materials: #1 Superfine/Fingering weight yarn, Size C (3.0mm) crochet hook, Scissors and Yarn Needle

Need a matching top? The video tutorial for the accompanying Easy Like Sunday Bikini Top is now released! Check it out here.

Stitches & Abbreviations: ch (s) = chain (s), dc = double crochet, st (s) = stitch (es), sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sp = space, ch sp = chain space, dc2tog = double crochet two stitches together, dc3tog = double crochet three stitches together, cdc = cross double crochet stitch, picot stitch

Important Notes before starting your project: Turning ch 3s count as the first stitch of the next row.

To minimize gaps from your turning ch 3s, you can work it like how I did it in the video here.

Front

Row 1: Ch 16, dc on the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across, ch 3, turn. (14 dc)

Row 2 (Non – increasing Row): Dc in each st across, ch 3, turn. (14 dc)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2 (3 times). Ch 3, turn. (14 dc)

Row 6 (Increasing Row): Dc in the same st, dc in each st across up to the last st, 2 dc in the last st, ch 3, turn. (16 dc)

Repeat Non – increasing row (Row 2) and Increasing Row (Row 6) until you have a total of 22 rows.

Edging

Continue with ch 3, cdc in each st across up to the last st, dc in the last st. Fasten off and cut yarn.

Back

Row 1: Connect yarn in the very first st at crotch, ch 3, dc in each st across. (14 dc)

Repeat Row 1 (3 times). Ch 3, turn. (14 dc)

Row 5 (Increasing Row): Dc in the same st, dc in each st across up to the last st, 2 dc in the last st, ch 3, turn. (16 dc)

Row 6 (Non – increasing Row): Dc in each st across. (16 dc)

Repeat Increasing Row (Row 5) and Non – increasing Row (Row 6) (1 more time).

Repeat Increasing Row (Row 5) and continue increasing until you have a total of 45 rows from front part all the way to the back part.

Repeat instructions on Edging. From here, do not cut yarn!

Border (Work along the sides of your bikini bottom)

Ch 1, continue working in each of the rows across the sides. * sc in the next row, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook to create a picot stitch *, repeat from * to * across up to the last row, end with 1 sc without picot in the last row. Do not cut yarn!

Strap

Continue with ch 3, dc2tog into the ch 3 sp, ch 1, dc3tog in the same ch 3 sp, turn and sl st into the ch 1 sp. (1 row of 2 clusters)

* ch 3, dc2tog in the ch 1 sp, ch 1, dc3tog in the same ch 3 sp, turn and sl st into the ch 1 sp. * (1 row of 2 clusters)

Repeat Row 2 until you have 8 clusters OR until your strap is long enough to fit one side of your hips. Add or subtract clusters as necessary.

To connect the strap to the back piece, this is what you will do at the very last cluster of your strap:

Ch 3, dc2tog in the ch 1 sp. Without twisting the strap, take the opposite part of the bikini and slip st into the ch 3 sp at the end, ch 1, and continue working a dc3tog back into the center ch 1 sp of the current cluster row. Watch this video to see how I connected the straps. Fasten and cut yarn.

With the front of the project facing you, join yarn at the ch 3 sp in the back part of the bikini and repeat instructions from Border to Strap for the other side. Fasten and cut yarn.

With a yarn needle, weave in all ends.

And that’s it! I’d love to see what colors you’ve made with this bikini bottom. Please share your pictures on Facebook or Instagram. You can tag me @whataboutyarn on social medias so I can also take a peek at your works.

Flower Bookmark

I’ve been a part of this maker community for a while now and so far I’ve seen several people looking for quick pattern inspirations to make.

Our endless yarn stashes can sometimes get so overwhelming that we would ran out of ideas on what to make with them. The other day as I was cleaning my craft storage I realized I still have a bunch of unused crochet threads so I decided to take them out of the box and off fell down a piece of lovely flower cardboard. I remembered I cut it out from a magazine in the past and used it as a bookmark for some of my crochet books.

So I thought to myself, why not make a better bookmark than this?

This simple flower bookmark is a quick pattern to make, I can simply work up one of these under 5-10 mins.

If you’ve seen my Youtube Tutorial of the Viewfinder Crochet Top that I did a few months ago and if you were able to make that same top, you can easily make this project as well!

I used the flower pattern from that top for the main flower of this bookmark. After that, I worked the clusters and ended the tail with a small tassel.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Materials:
• #0/Lace/Crochet Thread approximately 2 – 3 meters
• Size 0 (2.0 mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry Needle & Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch (s) = chain (s)
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
st (s) = stitch (es)
sk = skip
pop = popcorn stitch
ch sp = chain space
rep = repeat

Special Stitches:
• Popcorn Stitch (pop)
• Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)
• Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog) = (Yarn over, insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook). Yarn over. insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Important Notes:
• Beginning ch 3s counts as a stitch.
• Beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

The Flower
Round 1: Work 12 sc into a magic circle, sl st in the 1st sc. (12 sc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the same st, 2 dc in every st around, sl st into the 3rd
ch of the beginning ch 3. (24 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in the same st, ch 1, sk 1 st, *2 dc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st *; rep from * to * around, sl st into the
3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (24 dc and 12 ch 1 sp)

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st, 1 pop into the next ch 1 sp, *1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 1 pop into the next ch 1 sp *; rep from * to * around, sl st into the 1st sc. (12 pop and 24 sc)

Do not fasten.

The Clusters
1st Cluster: Continue with ch 3, dc2tog in the same sc, ch 1, dc3tog in the next sc, turn.

2nd Cluster: Sl st into the center ch 1 sp, ch 3, dc2tog into the center ch 1 sp, ch 1, dc3tog into the center ch 1 sp, turn.

Repeat instructions in 2nd Cluster (24 times) or as many times as you want until your bookmark is long enough to fit the length of your book. Fasten.

For the tassel part, I suggest that you watch this video on how I did it as it can get a little bit tricky to make.

With a tapestry needle, weave in your ends.

If you have any questions about this pattern, please feel free to join our newly established Facebook Community and there you can ask me anything about this design as well as all my other designs, get support from other makers and show off the outcome of your projects!

Easy and Simple Bikini Top

I had in mind to crochet a bikini top without cutting off my yarn or joining in yarn for the straps. I sometimes hate to sew in so many ends on my crochet projects so I came up with an idea for the one I’m currently working on.

This project is great for those of you who are just starting to make cups for your crochet summer tops. It’s an easy and simple design and very quick to make as well.

You’ll basically make two of your cup, attach the straps, connect the two pieces together and you’re done!

Finished Size: Small (30c, 36a, 34b, 32c, 30d).

For visual learners, you can also check out the video tutorial of this bikini on my Youtube Channel here.

Get the complete written pattern with step by step pictures and instructions for sizes XXS up to XL in ready to download PDF format in my Etsy Shop here and in my Ravelry Store here.

If you make one, tag me on Facebook or Instagram so I can share work!

Muy Caliente Bikini Top

Skill level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Gauge: 13 sts x 6 rows = 2″ x 2″ (5 cm x 5 cm) in Double Crochets

Materials:

#1 Fingering weight yarn (I used Cotton 8 by Scheepjes). For the size I’m making, you will not use more than 1 skein.
Size C (3.0 mm) crochet hook
Scissors & yarn needle

Abbreviations: ch = chain, dc = double crochet, st (s) = stitch (es), ch sp = chain space, hdc = half double crochet, sc = single crochet

Important notes before starting your project:

All turning ch 3s counts as a stitch.
Pattern enclosed in brackets { } are worked in the same stitch.
Beginning ch 2s in the border does not count as a stitch.

Cup

Row 1: Ch 23, dc on the 4th ch from hook and in each ch across and add {2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc} in the last ch, dc in each st across, ch 3, turn. (46 dc and 1 ch 1 sp)

Row 2: Dc in every st across up to the center ch 1 sp, {2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc} into the center ch 1 sp, dc in each st across, ch3, turn. (50 dc and 1 ch 1 sp)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2 (8 times) or as many times until the cup sits perfectly in your breast, adding 4 stitches plus a center ch 1 sp in every row. If you prefer to have less or more coverage, add or subtract rows before working on your border.

Border (Work along the bottom of the cup)

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each of the rows across, Ch 2, turn.

Row 2: Hdc in each of the sts across until the end of row, do not fasten.

Side Straps (Note: You may adjust the length of your straps as desired by adding or subtracting chains).

Ch 202, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each chain across, sc into the 1st hdc row, sc in every dc for about 2 inches, ch 202, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each chain across, sk 1 dc, sc in the next st and in each st across up to the center ch 1 sp,

Neck Straps

ch 202, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each chain across, sk the center ch 1 sp, sc into the next st and in every st across leaving about 2 inches unworked,

Front Ties

ch 32, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, sk 1 st, sc in the next st, sc in each st across up to the end of row, fasten. Leave enough yarn (about 2 to 6 inches) for joining the two cups together.

Repeat from the beginning to create the second cup.

Seaming

With a yarn needle, seam the two pieces in the middle starting from the bottom going up. Do not sew all the way to the front ties. Leave about half of the stitches unworked and fasten off.

Have fun and enjoy your finished Muy Caliente Bikini Top!

Look Of Love Halterneck

If you’re familiar with Diana Krall or Dusty Springfield, you probably know where the name of this project came from, although I very much prefer Trintje Oosterhuis’ version of this song, “The Look Of Love”.

If you’re following me on Instagram, I guess you’ve seen this halter top popping up in your feed in the past week. My lovely testers did their very best to help me with this project and I’m very grateful.

I’m excited to share this easy pattern to you today! This top has zero ease, meaning, it has a snug fit on the body.In general, you are going to crochet a square (which is actually almost like a rectangle shape), add the halter straps and you’re done!

If you make one, tag me on Facebook or Instagram so I can share work! 😊

For visual learners, you may want to check out the complete video tutorial of this halter top in my Youtube Channel here.

Look Of Love Halterneck

This pattern is a free version in size XS which is also available as a video tutorial in my Youtube Channel here. Other sizes are available to purchase as a downloadable PDF version with pictures and complete written instructions for sizes XS, S, M, L, XL in my Etsy and Ravelry Shops.

Finished Size: XS (28″ – 30″ bust/chest)

To measure chest circumference, take a tape measure and wrap it around the fullest part of your chest which is at the bust area.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner +

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Materials:
• #3/Light Worsted/DK 100% cotton yarn (approximately 170 meters (186 yards for the size I’m making or 113g)
• E-4 (3.5mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Gauge: 20 sts x 16 rows = 4″ x 4″ in Half Double Crochets

Stitches/Abbreviations:
Ch (s) = chain (s)
CDC = cross double crochet
st (s) = stitch (es)
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sk = skip
ch sp = chains space
sc = single crochet

Special Stitches: CDC (crossed double crochet), and Puff Stitch

Row 1:
Ch 92, dc in 5th ch from the hook and dc in the 4th ch from the hook (makes 1 CDC st), CDC in each ch across until 1 ch is left unworked, 1 dc in the last chain, turn.

Row 2:
Ch 3, CDC in every st across until 1 st is left unworked, 1 dc in the last st, turn.

Row 3 to Row 5:
Repeat Row 2, turn.

Row 6:
Ch 2, 1 hdc in the 1st st and in every st across, turn.

Row 7 to Row 27:
Repeat Row 6, turn.

Row 28:
Ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next 44 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 hdc in every st across, turn.

Row 29:
Ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next 42 sts, ch 1, {1 puff, ch 2, 1 puff} into the next ch 2 sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 hdc in every st across, turn.

Row 30:
Ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next 42 sts,
ch 1, {1 puff, ch 2, 1 puff} into the next ch 2 sp from the row below, ch 1,
1 hdc in every hdc across, turn.

Repeat Row 30 (2 more times).

Edges: (This part is optional) Since the garment already has neat edges in the sides, you may skip this part and fasten off and attach your back strings directly into the sides of your work in whichever way you prefer.

Working in the sides, Ch 4, 1 sc in each of the next 4 rows, *Ch 3, 1 sc in each of the next 4 rows *, repeat from * to * across until you reach the last row. Do the same procedure for the other side by joining yarn in the last hdc row on the other side of your work. Fasten off.

Neck Straps
Ch 200 (or more) and attach into the center ch 2 sp of the two puff stitches.

Back Straps
Chain 500. This is a personal preference. Chain as many as you want depending on how long you want your back straps to be.

Attach straps into both sides of your garment from the back in whichever
way you prefer.

Have fun and enjoy your new Look Of Love halter top!

Crocheted Pouch

I’ve had a fantastic weekend swatching some yarns and designing a few patterns for the upcoming months. I will also be releasing another shawl soon before I introduce new designs for autumn. All in all I’ve achieved a lot this year so I wanted to give back and share my ideas and designs to all the makers and crafters in this community.

Also, I would like to extend my gratitude to those of you who have already purchased patterns from me and to everyone who has been very supportive of my art. Thank you very very much!

So here’s something I’ve been dying to make since my phone’s flip cover case deteriorated months ago. I’ve not looked elsewhere for a replacement because I know it’s something I could do so I promised myself to put it in my priority list. Today I finally had the time to make one of these for myself.

I’m very excited to share this pattern with you. In addition, I also made a video tutorial to go along with it which is now up in my Youtube Channel.

Crocheted Pouch

Skill level: Advanced beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Materials:

2 balls of Size 8 Mercerized Cotton Crochet Thread (you may substitute other sizes of crochet thread as long as they are mercerized cotton), Size 0 (2.0 mm) crochet hook, Tapestry needle, Stitch marker and Scisscors

Finished Size: 3.75″ x 6.5″ (9.5cmx16.5cm)

Stitches/ Abbreviations:

ch (s) = chain (s)

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

dc = double crochet

st (s) = stitch (es)

rep = repeat

fpdc = (front post double crochet): Yarn over, Insert your hook from front to back through your work, so that the post you want to crochet around is in front of your hook. Yarn over again and pull through, there will now be 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, and pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.

For visual learners, check out the video tutorial of this stitch here.

bpdc = (back post double crochet): Yarn over, Insert your hook from the back to front through your work, so that the post you want to crochet around is in the back of your hook. Yarn over again and pull through, there will now be 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, and pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.

For visual learners, check out the video tutorial of this stitch here.

Important notes before starting your project:

• All beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

• All beginning ch 3s count as a stitch.

• To avoid losing your stitch counts, attach a stitch marker in the beginning of every row.

Round 1: With two strands, Ch 21, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in every chs, 3 sc in the last ch. Working at the opposite side of your stitches, sc in each st across, 3 sc in the last st, sl st into the very 1st st. (46 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in every st around, sl st into the very 1st st. (46 sts)

Round 3: Repeat Round 2. (46 sts)

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in the next st and in every st around, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning 3-chs. (46 sts)

Round 5: Ch 3, 3 fpdc, *4 bpdc, 4 fpdc*, rep from * to *, 3 dc. 4 fpdc, rep * to * twice, 3 dc. Sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning 3-chs. (46 sts)

Round 6: Ch 3, 3 bpdc, *4 fpdc, 4 bpdc*, rep from * to *, 3 dc. 4 bpdc, rep * to * twice, 3 dc. Sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning 3-chs. (46 sts)

Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 (3 times).

Round 13: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in every st around. Sl st into the very 1st st. (46 sts)

Repeat Round 13 (25 times).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hope you’ll love this! Have fun making! Don’t forget to tag me @whataboutyarn in your makes so I can take a peak of your finished pouches!

Boho Keychain

I’ve received your requests to make more crochet keychains and this diy project is one of the first that is released folowing my first keychain tutorial “Chain of Hearts“.

This project is really perfect for your mountain of yarn scraps as it only requires a few inches of whatever yarn you have on hand, plus, you can make them in all types of yarn and in all sorts of colors and they will still turn out nice!

One of my testers even worked this up on a hair tie for her pretty little girl and she looked so adorable on it!

Play with color combinations according to your mood or theme!

Boho Keychain

Skill level: Advanced Beginner

Abbreviations:
ch (s) = chain (s)
dc = double crochet

Special Stitch:
Popcorn Stitch – Work 5 Double Crochet (dc) stitches in the designated stitch. Remove hook from working yarn/loop, insert hook in the first dc stitch. From the back, grab the working yarn/loop, and pull through. Chain 1 to close the stitch.

For visual learners, there is a video tutorial of the popcorn (pop) stitch here.

Ch 4, 5 dc in the 4th ch from the hook.

Remove hook and insert into the 4th ch of your starting chs.

From the back, grab the working loop and pull through the loop in your hook to create a popcorn stitch, Ch 1.

Pull your yarn up of about 1 cm (or 1 inch and longer if you prefer). Yarn over and pull yarn through the long loop that you created and ch 1 to close this loop. (Note: The chain 1 here does not count as part of the starting chains).

Repeat the same procedure until you have 3 popcorns in the string. (If you prefer more popcorns, you can make them as many as you want by repeating the pattern).

Closure:
Continue by chaining 7 (or longer).
Cut and fasten off and make a knot at the end of the yarn.

Make as many popcorn strings as you want.

Insert the top chain of your strings into the keychain ring.

You can also check out the complete video tutorial of this project on my Youtube Channel here.

Share your DIY boho keychain on social media! Don’t forget to tag #whataboutyarn so I can see your makes!

Isla Fuego Festival Top

When it comes to summer there’s always one thing that comes to my mind – bikinis, tan lines, wide brimmed hats, sunglasses, unlimited supply of iced tea, piña coladas, swimming in the sea and of course cute and summery tops! (Okay, that’s more than one thing … lol).

I am a beach person. As much as possible I try to go outdoors everyday, savoring the fresh air and basking under the heat of the sun. Simple island life is great, I could not ask for more. I am very blessed to be in this beautiful paradise and so this latest design is dedicated to my home, Isla Del Fuego “The Island of Fire” Siquijor, Philippines.

Pictured below was taken on a lovely sunset afternoon by the beach, Siquijor Island, Philippines.

Hope you will love making this top as much as I do!

(Downloadable pdf pattern of sizes XXS to S is available in my Ravelry shop.)

Pattern Use: You are welcome to sell your finished items made by this design but please do not use my photos nor share screenshots of this written pattern. I kindly ask you to link back to this website if you wish to share this pattern.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Materials:

• #4 / Worsted weight yarn
(I am using Lily Sugar ‘n Cream Super Size in the shade of Crème, For the size I’m making, I used less than 1 ball, approximately 100g or 177 yds or 162m).
• Size E (3.5 mm) hook
• tapestry needle
• scissors

Finished Size: XS (30″ – 32″ Bust)

Gauge: 20 stitches x 7. 25 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) square in dc blo

Stitches/Abbreviations:
ch (s) = chain (s)
dc = double crochet
st (s) = stitch (es)
dc blo = double crochet back loop only
sl st = slip stitch
ch sp = chain space
CTr = cross treble crochet stitch
CDc = cross double crochet stitch
sk = skip
Tr = treble crochet stitch

Special Stitches:

• Cross Double Crochet (CDc)

For visual learners, there is a video tutorial of this stitch here:
https://youtu.be/9ntkDfEe8pM

• Cross Treble Crochet (CTr)

For visual learners, there is a video tutorial of this stitch here:
https://youtu.be/2l8oiZFjZkM

• Picot over Crossed Trebles

For visual learners, there is a video tutorial of this stitch here:
https://youtu.be/BZU2Kw8zB5s

Important notes before starting:
• The first row from the cup counts as Round 1.
• All turning chains count as a stitch except from Round 1 in the cup.

WATCH THE VIDEO TUTORIAL OF THIS TOP IN YOUTUBE HERE:

https://youtu.be/HEjEo-uXZpM

THE CUP
Round 1: (turning chain 3s do not count as a stitch in this round)

Ch 15, dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in every chs
across. (12 dc). Ch 3, turn.

Round 2:
1 dc blo in the next st and in every st across, 6 dc in the turning ch 3s, 1 dc blo in every st across up to the last st, 1 dc in the last st. (30 sts). Ch 3, turn.

Round 3:
1 dc blo in the next dc blo and in every dc blo across, 1 dc blo in each of the first 2 dc, 3 dc in each of the next 2 dc,1 dc blo in every st across up
to the turning ch 3s, 1 dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch 3s. (34 sts). Ch 3, turn.

Repeat Round 3 (3 times).

You will have 46 sts in the 6th round.

BORDER ROUND
CDc over the next 2 sts and in every st around up to the turning ch 3s, 1 dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch 3s. (46 sts)

Turn your work around to the bottom part. Now we will be working our
stitches in each of the rows in the bottom.

BOTTOM PART
Row 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in the 1st row, 2 dc in each of the row across. (26 sts).
Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, CDc over the next 2
sts and in every st across up
to the turning ch 3s, 1 dc in
the 3rd ch of the turning
ch 3s. (26 sts) Turn.

Row 3:
REPEAT ROW 2. (26 sts). Turn.

Row 4:
Ch 4, CTr over the next 2 sts and in every st across up to the turning ch 3s, 1 tr in the 3rd ch of the turning ch 3s. (26 sts). Turn.

Row 5: (Picot over CTr row)
Ch 3, sk the next st, 1 tr in the next st, ch 3, sl st into the inverted “V” in the
top part of the tr st, creating 1 picot st. Working behind the previous tr, work 1 tr into the stitch that you skipped,
creating a “picot over crossed trebles” (picot over CTr)
Sk the next st, 1 tr in the next st, 1 picot on top of the same tr, working
behind the same tr, 1 tr into the stitch that you skipped creating a “picot
over crossed trebles” (picot over CTr).
1 picot over CTr in every st across up to the turning ch 4s, 1 tr in the 4th ch of the turning ch 4s. (12 picot over CTr and 2 Tr).

SIDE
Now we will be working in the side of the body. Turn your work around to
the side part. We will be working our stitches in each of the rows in the
side.

Row 1:
Ch 4.
Work the next stitches as
follows:
1 CTr in each of the next 2
CTr rows,
1 CTr in each of the next 2
CDc rows,
1 CTr in the next dc row,
1 CTr over each of the next
2 CDc,
1 Tr in the chain space next
to the last CTr.
(16 sts). Turn.

Row 2:
Ch 4, 1 CTr in every st across up to the turning ch 4s, 1 Tr in the 4th ch of
the turning ch 4s.
(16 sts). Turn.

Row 3 to Row 5:
Repeat Row 2.
(16 sts). Turn.

Row 6: (Picot over CTr row)
Ch 3, Sk 1 st, 1 tr in the next st, ch 3, sl st into the inverted “V” in the top
part of the tr st, creating 1 picot st.
Working behind the tr, crochet 1 tr in the stitch that you skipped, creating a
“picot over crossed trebles (picot over CTr) “.
1 picot over CTr in every st across up to the turning ch 4s, 1 tr in the 4th ch
of the turning ch 4s.
(7 picot over CTr and 2 Tr).

Note for adjustments:
You may increase or decrease the length of the side by putting on your
work against your body and see how many more Tr rows you need to
add, as some of us have a small body but larger bust and vice
versa, just make sure to end with a picot over CTr row.

Repeat pattern from the beginning to make the second cup.

STRAPS
Front of project facing you.
Find the middle part at the top of your cup and join in the yarn.
(I prefer to sl st in the center ch sp in the top of the cup).

Ch 105, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in every chs across until the last ch, sl st in the next st.

Fasten and leave about 4″ of the end before cutting yarn for weaving.

(Note: Straighten your straps as you go as they tend to curl.)

Repeat procedure for the second strap.

Front Closure
Front of project facing you.
Lay two pieces flat. Ch 200, fasten and thread your chains into the open
chain spaces in the side of one cup and passing through the other side of
the cup in a criss-cross manner.

Back Closure
Back of project facing you.
Ch 300 for the closure at the back, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in
every chs across and fasten off.

Now you just have to weave in all your ends.

Serenata Halter Top

I am very pleased to have finished this latest pattern, the Serenata Halter Top.

It is such a fun pattern to make and it’s a great garment to wear during festivals and random beach trips!

You can download the PDF version that comes with multiple sizes of this on Etsy here or on Ravelry here.

Watch the FULL VIDEO TUTORIAL of this pattern on my Youtube Channel here.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Crochet Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Materials:
• Cotton 8 by Scheepjes 170m/50g
(size XS uses approx. less than 2 skeins or about 250 meters)
• C-2 (3.0mm) hook or size needed to get gauge
• Tapestry Needle
• Scissors
• Stitch Markers

Gauge: 28 sts x 10 rows = 4″ x 4″ (10cm x 10cm) square in dc blos.

Finished Size:
Fitted XS = 32 – 34″ Bust

Stitches/Abbreviations:
dc = double crochet
dc blo = double crochet back loop only
ch (s) = chain (s)
sk = skip
rep = repeat
ch sp (s) = chain space (s)
st (s) = stitch (es)
CDc = cross double crochet
dc2tog = double crochet two together

Special Stitch:
• Cross Double Crochet (CDc) – Work one double crochet in the designated stitch. Yarn over, insert hook in the skipped st working from the front to back around the double crochet post, grab the yarn and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook).Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.

For visual learners, check out the video tutorial of this stitch here.

RIBBING

Row 1:
Ch 12, dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in every chs across. (10 dc) turn.

Row 2:
Ch 3, dc blo in the next dc and in every dc across up to the turning ch 3s from the previous row, 1 dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch 3s. (10 sts) turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 40 rows in total.

BODY
Now we will be working along the side of the ribbing and upwards.

Row 1:
Ch 1, 2 sc into the 1st dc post and in every 1st dc post of every row across.
(80 sc). Turn.

Row 2:
Ch 1, sc in the 1st sc and in every sc across. (80 sc). Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, CDc in the next 2 sts and in each st across until 1 st left unworked, 1 dc in the last st. (80 sts).
Turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 3. (80 sts). Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, Sc blo in the 1st st and in every st across up to the turning ch 3s from the previous row, 1 sc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch 3s. (80 sc in blo). Turn.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in the next st and in every st across. (80 dc). Turn.

Repeat Row 6 (9 times)
You will have 10 dc rows in total.

Attach stitch markers on both sides of the last dc row.

DECREASING ROWS

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in the next st
(makes 1 dc2tog), dc2tog in the next 2 sts, dc in every st across until you have 3 dc and the turning ch 3s left unworked, 2 dc2tog in the last 4 sts. (76 sts). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in the next dc2tog
(makes 1 dc2tog), dc2tog in the next 2 sts, dc in every dc across until you have 4 sts left unworked, 2 dc2tog in the last 4 sts, (72 sts). Turn.

Repeat Row 2 (10 times) decreasing 4 sts in each row until you end with 32 sts in the last row. DO NOT FASTEN.

STRAPS

* Ch 105, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in every chs across *, sl st

back into the first dc2tog st, 1 sc blo in the next st and in every st across

until the second last st, sl st into the last st, rep from * to *, sl st back into
the last st.
(30 sc in blo and 2 straps).
Cut yarn and fasten off.

SIDE BODY

Now we will be working along the sides of your work.

Row 1: Sl st in the 1st st at stitch marker. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st.Remove st marker.

Work the next stitches as follows:

2 dc in every dc rows across,

1 dc in the sc blo row,

2 dc in each of the next 2 CDc rows,

1 dc in each of the next 2 sc rows,

1 dc in each of the next 9 dc across.

(36 dc). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, CDc in the next 2 sts and in each st across until 1 st left unworked, 1 dc in the last st.
(36 sts). Turn.

Repeat Row 2 eight (8) times. Fasten off.

Now repeat in the same manner as you did from Row 1 up to the last row to make the other side body.

Ch 300 for the closure at the back, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in every chs across and fasten off.

Sew in some cotton or lycra fabric lining on the inside of your project or attach padding cups.

Now weave in all your ends and enjoy your beautiful halter top!

Frolic Scarf

Here is something nice, playful, funky and textured.

Introducing the Frolic Scarf.

For visual learners, you can also watch the video tutorial of this scarf on my Youtube Channel here.

Download the Free PDF version in my Ravelry store here.

Level: Advanced Beginner

Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

Materials:
• #3/Light worsted yarn, approximately 312 yds or 250g)
• Size G (4.0mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry Needle
• Scissors

Approximate finished size:

L x W (58” x 6”)

Stitches and Abbreviations:
DC – double crochet
HDC – half double crochet
SC – single crochet
BO – bobble stitch
FPDC – front post double crochet
BPDC – back post double crochet
CH (s)- chain(s)
ST (s) – stitch(es)
REP – repeat
** – designates a repeat
SK – skip

Important Notes:
• All turning chains are counted as a stitch.
• All HDC stitches are counted as a stitch.

Special Stitch:
Bobble Stitch – Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (5 loops on hook). Yarn over, and draw through all the loops on the hook.

For visual learners, check put the video tutorial of this stitch here.

Row1: Ch 226, DC on 4th CH from hook up to the end of row.
(224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row2: SK 1st ST, DC on the next ST and in every STs across
(224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row3: REP row 2,
(CH 1 instead of chaining 3 at the end of row)
(224 STs), turn.

Row4: SK 1st ST, SC in the next 2 STs, BO into next ST, SC in the next 3
STs. ** SC in the next 3 STs, BO into next ST, SC in the next 3 STs ; REP from ** to the end of row (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row5: SK 1st ST, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 1, SK BO ST from row below, DC
in the next 3 STs. ** DC in the next 3 STs, CH 1, SK BO ST, DC in the next
3 STs ; REP from ** to the end of row (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row6: SK 1st ST, DC on the next ST and in every STs across (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row7: SK 1st DC ST,
** FPDC in the next DC, BPDC in the next DC ; REP from ** up to the end of row, HDC on top CH of turning CH from row below (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row8: (Note: Depending on the length of your scarf, if you ended with a FPDC ST in the second last stitch of the previous row, start with BPDC ST on this row. Likewise, if you ended with a BPDC ST, start with a FPDC ST in this row): SK HDC ST from row below, ** FPDC in the next ST, BPDC in the next ST ; REP from ** up to the end of row, HDC on top CH of turning CH from row below (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row9: SK 1st ST, DC on the next ST and in every STs across
(224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Repeat Row 9.

Row11: SK 1st DC,
** FPDC in the next DC, BPDC in the next DC ; REP from ** up to the end of row, HDC on top CH of turning CH from row below (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row12: (Note: Depending on the length of your scarf, if you ended with a FPDC ST in the second last stitch of the previous row, start with BPDC ST on this row. Likewise, if you ended with a BPDC ST, start with a FPDC ST in this row): SK HDC ST from row below, ** FPDC in the next ST, BPDC in the next ST; REP from ** up to the end of row, HDC on top CH of turning CH from row below (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row13: SK 1st ST, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 1, SK next ST, DC in the next 3
STs. ** DC in the next 3 STs, CH 1, SK next ST, DC in the next 3 STs ; REP
from ** to the end of row (224 STs), CH 1, turn.

Row14: SK 1st ST, SC in the next 2 STs, BO into CH ST, SC in the next 3
STs. ** SC in the next 3 STs, BO into CH ST, SC in the next 3 STs ; REP
from ** to the end of row (224 STs), CH 3, turn.

Row15: SK 1st ST, DC on the next ST and in every STs across (224 STs),
CH 3, turn.

Repeat Row 15 twice to finish.

(Note: Due to the nature of the FPDC & BPDC stitches, edges on both ends of
finished scarf will be slightly crooked. It is recommended but optional to add
another 1 or 2 rows of SC STs along the edges to have a clean finish, and/or attach tassels/fringes or any preferred edging.

Weave in all excess yarns.

Block finished scarf as desired.

Forget Me Not Infinity Scarf

When I published this pattern later in 2018, I was happily surprised by all the positive reactions and comments about this scarf.

Thank you so much for all of your support. This means so much to me.

I can’t wait to see all the variations of yarn colors that you will use with this pattern.

This scarf is definitely a great addition to your spring & summer wardrobe. This pattern uses a combination of Double Crochet and Puff stitches.

It actually works up pretty quick and it’s a great project to do when binge watching some Netflix movies or together with your morning coffee sips.

This pattern also has a video version which can be viewed in my Youtube Channel here.

Level: Advanced Beginner
Terminology: Standard US Terms
Finished Size: Adult, Adjustable

Materials:
• #3 DK/Light Worsted weight yarn
• Size G (4.0mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry Needle
• Scissors

Special Stitch: Puff Stitch – Yarn over, insert hook in the designated stitch, yarn over & pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over & pull up a loop, (5 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over & pull up a loop, (7 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over & pull up a loop, (9 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in the same stitch, yarn over & pull up a loop, (11 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all the loops on hook. Chain 1 to close the stitch.

For visual learners, check out the video tutorial of this stitch here.

Stitches / Abbreviations:
CH (s) – – chain(s)
DC – – double crochet
SK – – skip
ST (s) – – stitch (es)
REP – – repeat
CH SP – – chain space
** – – designates a repeat

Important notes before starting your project:

All turning chain 3s count as 1 dc.
All turning chain 4s count as 1 dc and 1 st.

You can get the Free PDF version of this pattern without photos here.

Forget Me Not Infinity Scarf

Row 1:
Ch 42, dc on the 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across (See Figure 1), Ch 4, turn. (40 dc)

Row 2:
Sk the next st, 1 puff in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in the next st (See Figure 2.1) *dc in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 puff in the next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in the next st* (See Figure 2.2), rep from * to * all the way until the top ch of the turning chs, ch 3, turn. (40 sts)

Row 3:
Dc in each st across until the 3rd ch of the turning chs, ch 3, turn. (40 dc)

Row 4:
Repeat Row 3 (See Figure 3), ch 4, turn. (40 dc)

Repeat Row 2 to Row 4 as many times as you want until you reach your desired length of your scarf.

Fasten off. Leave a relatively long tail on the yarn before cutting for seaming.

Twist the scarf in the center from front to back. With a yarn needle, connect both ends together with a mattress stitch.

Weave in all excess yarns.

FORGET ME NOT INFINITY SCARF

Show off your Forget Me Not Infinity Scarf in social media. Add hashtags #whataboutyarn and tag @whataboutyarn in your posts so I share your creations!

Chain of Hearts Keychain

There’s something so amazing about keychains – they’re handy and cute, they are fashionable but also very convenient.

When you are rushing off to work, it is also easier to just quickly grab that car key laying around the house if it’s attached to a keychain.

If you have plenty of scrap yarns in your stashes and you don’t know yet what to do with them, you better try this pattern.

They are perfect as personalized gifts and souvenirs for all occasions as well.

The yarn I used is from one of my favorite brands, Cotton 8 by Scheepjes and a 3.0mm crochet hook.

You can also use any type of fingering weight yarn. I actually worked one in yellow using 2 strands of lace weight crochet thread from my local store as well.

Chain of Hearts Keychain

Pattern Use: You are welcome to sell your finished items made by this design but please do not use my photos nor share screenshots of this written pattern. I kindly ask you to link back to this website if you wish to share this pattern.

Want the PDF version of this pattern? You can get it on my Ravelry Shop here.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Terminology: Standard US Crochet Terms

You will need:
• #1 Superfine/Fingering Weight Yarn ( In this youtube video, I used Scheepjes Cotton 8)
• Size C (3.0 mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Keychain rings

Finished size: 4.75 inches x 1 inch

Stitches/Abbreviations:
• Ch – chain
• ch sp – chain space
• st (s) – stitch (es)
• DC – double crochet

Special Stitch: V-puff Stitch

For visual learners, there is a video tutorial for the V-puff stitch here: https://youtu.be/T_TmE3WnYUs

Important Notes Before Starting Your project:
• All turning ch 4s count as 1 dc and 1 ch.

Row 1:
Ch 9, dc in the 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across. (7 dc)

Row 2:
Ch 4, sk the next 2 sts, V-puff in the next st, ch 1, sk the next 2 sts, dc in the 3rd ch of the turning chs. (7 sts)

Row 3:
Ch 4, V-puff into the center ch 1 sp of the V-puff from previous row, ch 1, dc in the 3rd ch of the beginning chs from the row below. (7 sts)

Repeat Row 3 as many times as you want until you achieve the desired length of your keychain.

Attaching The Keychain Ring:
Ch 2, dc in the next ch 1 sp, * dc on top of the next puff st, dc in the next ch 1 sp*, (Now remove hook and insert the working yarn into the key ring. Position the hook back into working yarn/loop again.) Repeat from * to *, dc in the 3rd ch of the beginning chs. (7 dc)

Fasten work. With a tapestry needle, weave in all ends.

Watch the video tutorial of this pattern on Youtube

I can’t wait to see all your makes of this keychain. Show me your Chain of Hearts in social media and don’t forget to link to this blog and tag me in your posts so I can feature your works as well!